Derived from old-vine parcels scattered around Cramant, Chouilly and Cuis, Gimonnet’s 2016 Special Club Grands Terroirs de Chardonnay bursts from the glass with aromas of apple, lemon zest, hazelnut and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied and enveloping yet bright, it is less taut than the Chouilly Special Club but a bit more ample than the Cramant Special Club standalone bottling. Full-bodied and concentrated and underpinned by vibrant acidity, it is an admirably consistent and age-worthy cuvée that always begins to show its plenitude with a few extra years post disgorgement. Incorporating fruit from vines planted in 1911 and 1913, plots that Gimonnet works with horses, I would be very curious to try a Champagne produced solely from these ancient vines. It was disgorged in June 2024 with four grams per liter dosage.